The cheongsam is a female dress with distinctive Chinese features and enjoys a growing popularity in the international world of high fashion.
The name “cheongsam,” meaning simply “long dress,” entered the English vocabulary from the dialect of China’s Guangdong Province (Cantonese). In other parts of the country including Beijing, however, it is known as “qipao”, which has a history behind it.
When the early Manchu rulers came to China proper, they organized certain people, mainly Manchus, into “banners” (qi) and called them “banner people” (qiren), which then became loosely the name of all Manchus. The Manchu women wore normally a one-piece dress which, likewise, came to be called “qipao” or “banner dress.” Although the 1911 Revolution toppled the rule of the Qing (Manchu) Dynasty, the female dress survived the political change and, with later improvements, has become the traditional dress for Chinese women.
Easy to slip on and comfortable to wear, the cheongsam fits well the female Chinese figure. Its neck is high, collar closed, and its sleeves may be either short, medium or full length, depending on season and taste. The dress is buttoned on the right side, with a loose chest, a fitting waist, and slits up from the sides, all of which combine to set off the beauty of the female shape.
The cheongsam is not too complicated to make. Nor does it call for too much material, for there are no accessories like belts, scarves, sashes or frills to go with it.
Another beauty of the cheongsam is that, made of different materials and to varying lengths, they can be worn either on casual or formal occasions. In either case, it creates an impression of simple and quiet charm, elegance and neatness. No wonder it is so much liked by women not only of China but of foreign countries as well.
During the 1930′s and 1940′s, Chinese haute couture was coming into its own in China’s trading capital, Shanghai. With the presence and influence of many business groups from all over Europe, Shanghai quickly adopted a hybrid East meets West-dressing style that is found in the modern day Cheongsam. Also known as the Chinese Mandarin dress, the Cheongsam fits the slim, curvy figures of Chinese women, especially those in Shanghai, and is still worn on formal occasions.
Following the end of World War I and economic growth, fashion became an important integration into the mainstream society in the bustling metropolis of China. Glitzy fashion columns began appearing in the big newspapers and magazines; popular fashion calendars emerged featuring a different girl sporting a new Cheongsam each month; regular fashion shows appeared in the major department stores where a wide range foreign goods influenced the local tastes. As prosperity spread, people were drawn to pursue Western styles of life that included swimming, social dancing, and golfing.
Furthermore, a myriad of changes in fabric, design, and detailing meant bolder colors and more revealing cuts. Oftentimes, these cheongsams were made of unusual impregnated silk gauzes, brocades, printed damasks, and burnt out velvets. Silk stockings, high-heeled shoes, glittering necklaces, classic fans, makeup portfolios, and beaded purses further accentuated the outfits with an air of seduction. To get a better look at the unique styling of the Chinese Cheongsam, watch Wong Kar Wai’s film “In the Mood For Love” or visit Good Orient’s Cheongsam section.
